No, not the British. The annual SAFE Supplements to our hingeless country stamp albums are finally in route from Germany. You can pre order the 2014 Annual Supplements on our website so that you will receive them at the end of June.
It is around this time every year, as people head into their summer
vacation time, do they open up their stamp albums, pull out the year's
accumulation of new stamps that they purchased. Whether it is from the
United States, Israel, Germany, the Vatican or Australia in the
Antarctic! They take some time, look at the new issues they have, put
them neatly into their brand new supplement pages and really study
them.
Our SAFE-dual Hingeless Stamp Albums
are truly second to none in the world. You can see both sides of the
stamp, there is plenty of room ot make notes on the background page.
And best of all, NO MOUNTS to CUT to size! What a chore that used to
be.
If you have not already converted your collection to our Hingeless Stamp Album system, why not start today with the 2014 Annual Supplements. And just start from there. You won't be sorry that you did!
Sunday, May 31, 2015
Saturday, February 21, 2015
5 Contemporary Tools That Every Philatelist (Stamp Collector) Should Be Using!
The art and study of stamp collecting is formally
known as “Philately,” and Philatelists are individuals that excel in the study
of stamp and postal history.
Technically, one doesn’t need to own a single stamp to be considered a
Philatelist, but that’s no fun, right?
The hobby of stamp collecting has become
increasingly focused on condition protection and quality preservation. With new technology and materials being
developed every year, SAFE® Collecting Supplies is dedicated to keeping with
the times. We are constantly updating
our stock of stamp
albums and other
great stamp collecting supplies for our customers in Pennsylvania and anywhere
else nationwide.
That being said let us recommend five tools we’ve
seen that everyone ranging from beginner to fully-fledged philatelists will
benefit from. These tools will
definitely come handy after you’ve chosen the right stamp album for your needs.
Stamp
Tongs
Stamp tongs are no longer a one-size-fits-all
tool. Now, stamp
collectors need a wide variety of tongs for different styles
and sizes of stamps. If you look, you’ll
notice that there are many varied styles these days.
These styles range from normal flat spade tips, to
bent round tips, bent pointed tips, flat round tips, flat pointed tips, bent
spade tips and more. Each tong has
advantages for different types and styles of stamps of assorted materials.
Ultraviolet
(UV) Lamps
We offer a wide variety of UV lamps at SAFE
Collecting Supplies. This includes
long-wave and short-wave UV lamps. UV lights are rated by their ultraviolet
index signified by the “nm” symbol.
Long-wave UV is measured at 365nm and is the typical type of UV light
used to authenticate paper, currency, some rocks, art and repair
detection. Short-wave UV, measured
around 254nm, is used for many stamps, as well as, rocks and minerals, but only
some foreign currency.
Because philatelists need both types of UV light for
their collections, SAFE Collecting Supplies offers versatile UV Light
products. Our Philalux
3 UV Light Table has 3x and 12x magnification and
includes a magnetic tester a fluorescent light table as well as both long-wave
and short-wave UV lamps.
We also offer a wide variety of hand-held
options. We have handheld magnifiers
that use long and short-wave UV lamps.
We have a wide
selection of quality UV lamps of all sizes, whether you
need them mounted to a desktop or handy in your pocket. If you already have somewhere for
magnification and illumination, you can benefit from our handheld,
battery powered combination precision long and short-wave UV lamp.
Regardless of the specific type of UV lamp you need
to complete your collection area, we have you covered.
Precision
Rotary Cutters
While many use our Cutters to cut Stamp Mounts, they
can also be used to remove a stamp from its’ original placement or
environment. This includes if a stamp is
stuck to a postcard or even to its own album.
When you need to remove a stamp from its’ original envelope or from
somewhere it’s been stuck, and you don’t want to risk an inaccurate cut with
scissors and your naked eye, SAFE® Collecting Supplies has a great solution – precision
rotary cutters.
Precision rotary cutters are a great new tool for
philatelists of all levels. The rolling
blade can cut several layers of paper without any serration in the cutting
edge. The device itself has easily
readable grids and a plastic housing to ensure you only cut where you want
to. The device can also be used
ambidextrously, so there’s no need to worry if you’re right or left-handed.
Electronic
Perforation Gauges
Perforations, or “perfs” in a stamp are the little
ridges that are found on the outside borders of stamps. These perforations were originally devised to
make it easier to separate the stamp from its booklet or wherever else it was
originally sold out of.
Often, perforations are a great indicator of rarity
for a stamp. Perforations on stamps are
measured by how many perforations are found over a course of 2
centimeters. Stamps with 10 perforations
over 2 centimeters on a side would be considered “Perf 10”. If one side had 10 perforations and another
had 12, the stamp would be “Perf 10x12”.
To make this process simple for the philatelist, SAFE® Collecting
Supplies provides affordable
electronic perforation gauges, taking away the need
for close visual analysis of perforations.
Professional
Watermark Detectors.
For years, the only way known to authenticate the
watermark on a stamp was to place the stamp in watermark fluid. This process can be terrifying for a
philatelist, as it puts stamps at a great risk when they are exposed to any
liquid, whether it’s water or a chemical.
At SAFE® Collecting Supplies, we know that
collectors hold a special and often sentimental value to their
collectibles. This is true for stamp
albums, coin collections or an arrangement of fluorescent rocks; it doesn’t
matter. We know that stamps can be quite
valuable and are no exception to this.
For this reason, we
provide a great variety of professional watermark detectors. With these
detectors, philatelists can accurately and efficiently authenticate the
watermarks on their stamps without compromising the quality or safety of their stamps.
At SAFE® Collecting Supplies, we’re always trying to
stay in touch with contemporary collecting methods and techniques. As we find newer and better ways to protect
collectibles, we don’t waste any time bringing these products and techniques to
our customers. To learn more about the
benefits we provide to philatelists all over the United States, call us at SAFE®
Collecting Supplies today at 877.395.SAFE (7233).
We’ll be more than happy to talk to you about how we
can help protect, preserve and even present & display your valued stamp
collection.
Thursday, December 11, 2014
Taking Some Time To Discuss The Vibrant History of Stamps...
On July 1st, 1847, the United States Post Office Department
would issue their first postage stamps…but they were not the first. In
1837, Sir Rowland Hill of Great Britain proposed a new idea of
standardized prices for delivery of mail, or “postage”. This new idea
resulted in printed envelopes with pre-printed postage or adhesive
labels placed onto them. Not long after this discovery, the first stamp
was soon to be born.
On May 6, 1840 the British would pioneer the “Penny Black”, a black stamp signifying that a patron has paid the proper postage fee. This stamp received the nickname due to the fact that it was black, and cost one cent. These stamps would cover any letter delivery weighing a half-ounce or less within any of the British Isles. Everyone knows that this stamp has long been credited as the “first stamp.”
The United States had obstacles to overcome before the final creation of their postage stamp, mainly the fact that postage costs in America were not standardized yet. In 1845 US Lawmakers mandated the standardization of postage costs in America. When this happened, New York City Postmaster Robert H Morris and some of his associates formally produced special stamps and markings that would officially signify that an individual had pre-paid for their postage. Now these are known as Postmasters’ Provisionals; widely collected for their rich heritage.
A man named Alexander M. Greig, owner of the New York City Despatch Post; a private carrier within NYC produced the first adhesive stamps starting February 1st, 1842. The US Government bought out this business and continued Greig’s legacy with the idea of continuing to use adhesive stamps to signify payment for postage.
Thus in 1847 on March 3rd, Congress authorized the first printed adhesive postage stamps. Again, the first of these stamps were available for purchase July 1st, 1847 in New York City. One stamp was five cents, depicting a picture of Benjamin Franklin. The other—a ten-cent stamp that featured a picture of George Washington. They were cut from printed adhesive sheets with no perforations. In 1856, the USPS issued another five cent stamp featuring Thomas Jefferson. Then, in 1863, a two-cent stamp with Andrew Jackson appearing on it was created. To this day, George Washington is the most-used face for American postage stamps.
All of these pre-20th century stamps are valued collectors’ items now. This is why it’s important that if you’re fortunate enough to hold one of these pieces of history that you defend them properly. If you’re wondering how, we have plenty of stamp collecting supplies for you to choose from.
Since then, stamps have evolved into pieces of artwork. They are distributed and sold designed to commemorate public service officials as well as honor national icons or celebrities. The USPS has featured stationary, commemorative stamps, stamp booklets, non-denominated stamps and more. With such a rich history full of character development and artistic detail, it’s important that collectors use products from companies such as SAFE® Collecting Supplies to preserve these beautiful works of history and art. Check our selections today!
On May 6, 1840 the British would pioneer the “Penny Black”, a black stamp signifying that a patron has paid the proper postage fee. This stamp received the nickname due to the fact that it was black, and cost one cent. These stamps would cover any letter delivery weighing a half-ounce or less within any of the British Isles. Everyone knows that this stamp has long been credited as the “first stamp.”
The United States had obstacles to overcome before the final creation of their postage stamp, mainly the fact that postage costs in America were not standardized yet. In 1845 US Lawmakers mandated the standardization of postage costs in America. When this happened, New York City Postmaster Robert H Morris and some of his associates formally produced special stamps and markings that would officially signify that an individual had pre-paid for their postage. Now these are known as Postmasters’ Provisionals; widely collected for their rich heritage.
A man named Alexander M. Greig, owner of the New York City Despatch Post; a private carrier within NYC produced the first adhesive stamps starting February 1st, 1842. The US Government bought out this business and continued Greig’s legacy with the idea of continuing to use adhesive stamps to signify payment for postage.
Thus in 1847 on March 3rd, Congress authorized the first printed adhesive postage stamps. Again, the first of these stamps were available for purchase July 1st, 1847 in New York City. One stamp was five cents, depicting a picture of Benjamin Franklin. The other—a ten-cent stamp that featured a picture of George Washington. They were cut from printed adhesive sheets with no perforations. In 1856, the USPS issued another five cent stamp featuring Thomas Jefferson. Then, in 1863, a two-cent stamp with Andrew Jackson appearing on it was created. To this day, George Washington is the most-used face for American postage stamps.
All of these pre-20th century stamps are valued collectors’ items now. This is why it’s important that if you’re fortunate enough to hold one of these pieces of history that you defend them properly. If you’re wondering how, we have plenty of stamp collecting supplies for you to choose from.
Since then, stamps have evolved into pieces of artwork. They are distributed and sold designed to commemorate public service officials as well as honor national icons or celebrities. The USPS has featured stationary, commemorative stamps, stamp booklets, non-denominated stamps and more. With such a rich history full of character development and artistic detail, it’s important that collectors use products from companies such as SAFE® Collecting Supplies to preserve these beautiful works of history and art. Check our selections today!
Friday, October 17, 2014
Batman stamps.....really?!
No question this week, I had to tip my hat to the folks at Business Week this week. All stamp collectors read this and rejoice, at least we made the news cycle!
![]() |
| Batman Stamps - really?! |
Read the article below and you be the judge:
http://www.businessweek.com/articles/2014-10-16/batman-stamps-collectors-say-despicable-usps-says-brilliant
Just remember, if you buy the Batman stamps, just make sure to put them in SAFE Stamp Album or Stockbook
Monday, October 6, 2014
Why Stamp and Coin Collecting Books are Assets to All Collectors
Adequate preparation is needed when beginning the exciting hobby of collecting stamps and coins. If you are new to the world of stamp or coin collecting, you will find that the best way to benefit from collecting is to always be prepared! What is the best way to prepare for a rewarding hobby in collecting? By reading and using stamp and coin collecting books!
By using coin and stamp collecting books, you will present yourself
as a well-informed and experienced collector. Having that special aura
surrounding yourself can be the difference between convincing another collector
to buy from you, or sell to you. As a collector or dealer, you will find
yourself learning more each day by reading stamp and coin collecting books and
using that information to your advantage to teach others about the rare coins
you have collected throughout the years.
Anyone interested in learning about coins will often
turn to the internet to find the information they need. Why keep turning to the
internet, if you have the books right at your fingertips! You can purchase
stamp and coin collecting books and pull them out whenever you need them! Owning the actual books
has many advantages because the books you buy have all the resources you need.
This helps you avid the headache of figuring out what exactly to search for on
the internet, which could take hours!
Benefits of Coin and Stamp Collecting Books:
- Find information on coins or stamps made in a particular year
- Find information on coins stamps made in a specific part of the world
- Buy pocket-sized books to carry with you and use at exhibits
- Buy books with sleeves built in, so you can store your coins or stamps
If you are willing to invest in coin or stamp collecting books,
contact us at SAFE Collecting Supplies today. Our website has much more
information on all coin and stamp collecting supplies needed for success!
Saturday, August 9, 2014
What happened to the color of my stamp??
From time to time I hear from collectors who have come across a stamp that has turned color from yellow or orange, to a disgusting brown or chestnut. What happened??
The collectors sometimes first think that their stamp album pages have plasticized PVC in them and that has caused the discoloration. The philatelic industry has almost universally mistakenly referred to this process as "oxidation" for many years. Thankfully in the case of SAFE Stamp Albums, we know that there is no plasticized PVC in any of the pages.
If your stamp is in archival stamp album pages, then the actual cause is environmental contaminants in the air, in which the correct term is actually "Sulphurization." Below, I have paraphrased some comments from a recent editorial in the American Phlatelist.
Sulphurization is an unintended and undesirable chemical process that alters the natural color of stamps printed with ink containing lead. Philatelists often assume that prolonged exposure to oxygen is the cause of this browning. It is actually the traces of sulfur in the air that combined with the metallic component of pigments to alter the surface of the ink coating and our perception of its color. A sulphurized stamp represents that progressive damage over a period of time.
Many also ask whether this sulphurization can be reversed? And the answer is yes, by oxidizing the stamp. For used stamps, a gentle bath in an over-the-counter hydrogen peroxide (a 3% solution), followed by a rinse in a clear water will usually restore the color in less than a minute. Peroxide in its pure form is a very strong oxidizer. Obviously mint cannot be immersed in hydrogen peroxide without destroying the gum, but with practice, they can be fumed. However, NEVER ATTEMPT this yourself without first practicing on some common examples.
Some philatelists argue strongly against the use of peroxide on sulphurized stamps, calling it a form of alteration such as re-gumming. However, I personally think it is more like restoration or conservation in bringing the stamp back to its former beauty. Either way the choice is yours. But remember to keep your stamps as safe as possible in SAFE stamp albums!
The collectors sometimes first think that their stamp album pages have plasticized PVC in them and that has caused the discoloration. The philatelic industry has almost universally mistakenly referred to this process as "oxidation" for many years. Thankfully in the case of SAFE Stamp Albums, we know that there is no plasticized PVC in any of the pages.
If your stamp is in archival stamp album pages, then the actual cause is environmental contaminants in the air, in which the correct term is actually "Sulphurization." Below, I have paraphrased some comments from a recent editorial in the American Phlatelist.
Sulphurization is an unintended and undesirable chemical process that alters the natural color of stamps printed with ink containing lead. Philatelists often assume that prolonged exposure to oxygen is the cause of this browning. It is actually the traces of sulfur in the air that combined with the metallic component of pigments to alter the surface of the ink coating and our perception of its color. A sulphurized stamp represents that progressive damage over a period of time.
Many also ask whether this sulphurization can be reversed? And the answer is yes, by oxidizing the stamp. For used stamps, a gentle bath in an over-the-counter hydrogen peroxide (a 3% solution), followed by a rinse in a clear water will usually restore the color in less than a minute. Peroxide in its pure form is a very strong oxidizer. Obviously mint cannot be immersed in hydrogen peroxide without destroying the gum, but with practice, they can be fumed. However, NEVER ATTEMPT this yourself without first practicing on some common examples.
Some philatelists argue strongly against the use of peroxide on sulphurized stamps, calling it a form of alteration such as re-gumming. However, I personally think it is more like restoration or conservation in bringing the stamp back to its former beauty. Either way the choice is yours. But remember to keep your stamps as safe as possible in SAFE stamp albums!
Sunday, May 18, 2014
So many different kinds of perforations...
A collector talked to me about perforation gauges the other day on the phone, after complaining about today's self-adhesive stamps. And it got us talking about the history of perforations. So I dug deep through the internet to provide our readers a little about the history of perforations.
The world’s first postage stamps, issued by Great Britain in 1840, were without means of self-separation. They are called imperforate or, abbreviated, “imperf.” Such stamps had to be cut apart with scissors or some other means. Hence it is unusual to find “imperfs” with nice margins on all four sides. Shortly after the first stamps were issued, the idea of separating each stamp from each by means of rows of small holes between the rows of stamps was introduced.
The story was told that a local had purchased some of England’s first stamps and, under the influence of a pint or two, sat on the curb where he produced a pin and began to poke pin holes between his stamps so that he could tear them apart. The idea worked so well that he took his stamps back to the Post Office and pointed out his great discovery. Later, it is related, the British Government provided this gentleman with a substantial sum of money for his invention.
The fact remains that for United States stamps, which have been perforated by machines producing various gauges of perforations, there is often an enormous difference in value running from a few cents to as much as several hundred dollars for what, to all intents and purposes, is the identical stamp except for the gauge of the perforation. The same situation applies to most foreign issues but until the advent of “The New World-Wide Postage Stamp Catalog” few collectors in the United States were aware of this fact. This catalog lists and gives values for practically all perforation varieties of all stamps of the world.
Likewise our printed hingeless stamp albums – provide spaces in which to place each stamp – with perforation varieties for the stamps of the United States and other countries. The matter is important, however, and especially so as one becomes advanced in his or her collecting interests.
COMB PERFORATIONS
Now let us take into consideration the various kinds of perforations and the methods by which they are applied to stamps. The original perforating machine, one that is still in common use for the stamps of some countries, is the “comb” perforator. As the name implies, this is an instrument shaped like a comb. The pins that do the perforating are arranged in a long row to fit the width of the sheet of stamps and the extensions of shorter rows of prongs are arranged so as to fall between each stamp, like this:
Stamps in sheets are
stacked in quantity and the comb is punched through the top row. Then
the comb is moved to the next row and so on. The comb does not always
line up exactly with the preceding row so that this style of perforation
can often be identified in any vertical pair of stamps. However, it has
never come to my attention that these variations in the placement of
the comb have received any important consideration among collectors.
Usually the punches, or prongs, that make the perforations are round in
shape. But there are also some that are oblong, or
lozenge, in shape or perhaps others. Collectors refer to these
odd shapes as “hyphen hole” perfs., or “Lozenge” perfs., and “square”
perfs.
Modern perforating machines, as used in the production of US stamps, are sprocket wheel punches which punch continuous rows of
holes between the stamps. When the stamps are produced on rotary
presses in a continuous strip, the sprockets are small wheels that make a
continuous row of perforations in one direction.
Then, a little further along on the machine, the sprockets are on a long shaft running the complete width of the sheet to produce the cross row of perforations at each turn of the wheel. Naturally this is a complicated device requiring careful coordination with the printed stamps so that the rows of holes will fall at exactly the correct place between the stamps. Nowadays this coordination is accomplished electrically by what collectors call the “electric eye” shown above.
This is what gave the idea of the electronic perforation gauge to the people at SAFE. And hence the Perfotronic was born. The Perfotronic uses an electric eye of sorts to measure the perforation in 1/4, 1/10 or 1/100 increments in a fraction of a second. We produced a short video of the Perfotronic so you can see how it works for yourself.
The world’s first postage stamps, issued by Great Britain in 1840, were without means of self-separation. They are called imperforate or, abbreviated, “imperf.” Such stamps had to be cut apart with scissors or some other means. Hence it is unusual to find “imperfs” with nice margins on all four sides. Shortly after the first stamps were issued, the idea of separating each stamp from each by means of rows of small holes between the rows of stamps was introduced.
The story was told that a local had purchased some of England’s first stamps and, under the influence of a pint or two, sat on the curb where he produced a pin and began to poke pin holes between his stamps so that he could tear them apart. The idea worked so well that he took his stamps back to the Post Office and pointed out his great discovery. Later, it is related, the British Government provided this gentleman with a substantial sum of money for his invention.
DIFFERENT TYPES OF PERFORATIONS
There is, of course, a very apparent difference between a stamp without perforations – “imperf.” – and one with perforations – “perf.” – and one can readily understand why early collectors made such an important point of that difference. However, in this day of collecting it is somewhat difficult to understand why so much emphasis is placed on the different gauges of perforation.The fact remains that for United States stamps, which have been perforated by machines producing various gauges of perforations, there is often an enormous difference in value running from a few cents to as much as several hundred dollars for what, to all intents and purposes, is the identical stamp except for the gauge of the perforation. The same situation applies to most foreign issues but until the advent of “The New World-Wide Postage Stamp Catalog” few collectors in the United States were aware of this fact. This catalog lists and gives values for practically all perforation varieties of all stamps of the world.
Likewise our printed hingeless stamp albums – provide spaces in which to place each stamp – with perforation varieties for the stamps of the United States and other countries. The matter is important, however, and especially so as one becomes advanced in his or her collecting interests.
COMB PERFORATIONS
Now let us take into consideration the various kinds of perforations and the methods by which they are applied to stamps. The original perforating machine, one that is still in common use for the stamps of some countries, is the “comb” perforator. As the name implies, this is an instrument shaped like a comb. The pins that do the perforating are arranged in a long row to fit the width of the sheet of stamps and the extensions of shorter rows of prongs are arranged so as to fall between each stamp, like this:
| Photo by Bureau of Engraving & Printing |
Then, a little further along on the machine, the sprockets are on a long shaft running the complete width of the sheet to produce the cross row of perforations at each turn of the wheel. Naturally this is a complicated device requiring careful coordination with the printed stamps so that the rows of holes will fall at exactly the correct place between the stamps. Nowadays this coordination is accomplished electrically by what collectors call the “electric eye” shown above.
This is what gave the idea of the electronic perforation gauge to the people at SAFE. And hence the Perfotronic was born. The Perfotronic uses an electric eye of sorts to measure the perforation in 1/4, 1/10 or 1/100 increments in a fraction of a second. We produced a short video of the Perfotronic so you can see how it works for yourself.
Saturday, February 1, 2014
How can I get a self adhesive stamp off an envelope?...
Every now and again I get a phone call asking if I know if there is any good way to remove a self-adhesive stamps from envelopes. Do you have any special stamp accessories that can help? Ironically we don't ... but your hardware store does!
While the self-adhesive stamps have been a boon for the post office, and users of stamps, gummed stamps were always so much simpler for collectors. Just soak them in water and they fell off the paper. But if you want to place a self adhesive stamp in a stamp album or a stamp stockbook, how can you get it off the envelope?!
After countless home remedies that people have tried, can you believe the answer is WD-40?! Yet another problem solved by WD-40 and it only takes 20 seconds. This is how it works - but don't come complaining if it didn't work for you :-)
1. With envelope in hand, cut the paper around the stamp leaving enough exposed to hold on to the edge of the stamp with stamp tongs.
2. Hold your stamp with the tongs, with the back of the stamp (blank paper facing you) so you can see the center of the stamp. (Use a light if necessary to assist)
3. Spray some WD-40 with spray nozzle on the center of the back of the stamp and within a few seconds the paper will look translucent. For thicker postcards allow the WD-40 a few more seconds to penetrate the thicker paper stock.
4. The stamp should now peel off very easily with your stamp tongs. If it doesn't wait just a little longer. Then try again. It doesn't fall off like the old days, it must be peeled with the stamp tongs.
5. Place your stamp face down into your stamp drying book or stamp drying press. Take a brush and sprinkle and brush a little baby powder on the adhesive. And let it dry!
While the self-adhesive stamps have been a boon for the post office, and users of stamps, gummed stamps were always so much simpler for collectors. Just soak them in water and they fell off the paper. But if you want to place a self adhesive stamp in a stamp album or a stamp stockbook, how can you get it off the envelope?!
After countless home remedies that people have tried, can you believe the answer is WD-40?! Yet another problem solved by WD-40 and it only takes 20 seconds. This is how it works - but don't come complaining if it didn't work for you :-)
1. With envelope in hand, cut the paper around the stamp leaving enough exposed to hold on to the edge of the stamp with stamp tongs.
2. Hold your stamp with the tongs, with the back of the stamp (blank paper facing you) so you can see the center of the stamp. (Use a light if necessary to assist)
3. Spray some WD-40 with spray nozzle on the center of the back of the stamp and within a few seconds the paper will look translucent. For thicker postcards allow the WD-40 a few more seconds to penetrate the thicker paper stock.
4. The stamp should now peel off very easily with your stamp tongs. If it doesn't wait just a little longer. Then try again. It doesn't fall off like the old days, it must be peeled with the stamp tongs.
5. Place your stamp face down into your stamp drying book or stamp drying press. Take a brush and sprinkle and brush a little baby powder on the adhesive. And let it dry!
Sunday, December 29, 2013
Perforations on stamps - a big difference in value!
People sometimes wonder why stamps have these perforations, or teeth, and do they really matter in the value of the stamps...the short answer is YES! Allow me to give you a brief history of perforations that I paraphrased from various sources. And why you need to have a perforation gauge in your arsenal of stamp tools and stamp accessories.
Until about 1850 all stamps were issued imperforate, and had to be cut from the sheet with scissors or a knife. This was time-consuming and error-prone (as mangled stamps of the era attest). Since then, a perforation machine, based on Henry Archer's original design worked on a "stroke" principle. The arrangement of the pins enabled the top and sides of each stamp across the row to be perforated in a single operation, and this became known as "comb" perforation.
The standard for describing perforation is the number of holes (or the "teeth" or "perfs" of an individual stamp) in a 2-centimeter span. The finest gauge ever used is 18 on stamps of the Malay States in the early 1950s, and the coarsest is 2, seen on the 1891 stamps of Bhopal. Modern stamp perforations tend to range from 11 to 14.
Stamps that are perforated on one pair of opposite sides and imperforate on the other have most often been produced in coils instead of sheets, but they can sometimes come from booklet panes. Booklet panes can be associated with any combination of one, two or three imperforate sides. Sheet edges can produce any one imperforate side or two adjacent imperforate sides when the stamp comes from the corner of the sheet.
Variations include syncopated perforations which are uneven, either skipping a hole or by making some holes larger. In the 1990s, Great Britain began adding large elliptical holes to the perforations on each side, as an anti-counterfeiting measure.
For the stamp collector, perforations matter, not only as a way to
distinguish different stamps (a perf 10 may be rarer and more valuable
than a perf 11 of the same design), but also as part of the condition of
stamps. Short or "nibbed" perfs are undesirable and reduce value, as
are bent or creased perfs. Although the collector could count the number
of holes using a ruler, the usual practice is to use a simple perforation gauge shown above,
which has pre-printed patterns of holes in a selection of common
perforations, requiring one merely to line up the stamp's perforations
with the closest match.

Then, after many hours of stamp collectors eyes going blurry due to trying to align these little holes, the R&D team at SAFE designed the electronic Perfotronic. The PERFOtronic automatically measures by rounding up or down to the next 1/4 perforation as shown in stamp catalogs. The processor of the unit is even able to calculate around missing perforations or perforation errors.
So anyway you look at it, yes perforations are important to stamp collectors, so make sure you always have a perforation gauge with you at all times. You never know - you might run into a great opportunity to buy a stamp that has a lot higher value than you think.
Until about 1850 all stamps were issued imperforate, and had to be cut from the sheet with scissors or a knife. This was time-consuming and error-prone (as mangled stamps of the era attest). Since then, a perforation machine, based on Henry Archer's original design worked on a "stroke" principle. The arrangement of the pins enabled the top and sides of each stamp across the row to be perforated in a single operation, and this became known as "comb" perforation.
The standard for describing perforation is the number of holes (or the "teeth" or "perfs" of an individual stamp) in a 2-centimeter span. The finest gauge ever used is 18 on stamps of the Malay States in the early 1950s, and the coarsest is 2, seen on the 1891 stamps of Bhopal. Modern stamp perforations tend to range from 11 to 14.
Stamps that are perforated on one pair of opposite sides and imperforate on the other have most often been produced in coils instead of sheets, but they can sometimes come from booklet panes. Booklet panes can be associated with any combination of one, two or three imperforate sides. Sheet edges can produce any one imperforate side or two adjacent imperforate sides when the stamp comes from the corner of the sheet.
Variations include syncopated perforations which are uneven, either skipping a hole or by making some holes larger. In the 1990s, Great Britain began adding large elliptical holes to the perforations on each side, as an anti-counterfeiting measure.

Then, after many hours of stamp collectors eyes going blurry due to trying to align these little holes, the R&D team at SAFE designed the electronic Perfotronic. The PERFOtronic automatically measures by rounding up or down to the next 1/4 perforation as shown in stamp catalogs. The processor of the unit is even able to calculate around missing perforations or perforation errors.
So anyway you look at it, yes perforations are important to stamp collectors, so make sure you always have a perforation gauge with you at all times. You never know - you might run into a great opportunity to buy a stamp that has a lot higher value than you think.
Sunday, November 17, 2013
Just inherited a stamp collection...now what?
My brothers and I just inherited my Grandfather's stamp collection. It has both used and not used (mint) stamps. We have been told that it does have some very valuable stamps in it, but quite frankly we don't know which they are. Can you help us?
The first thing I would suggest you do is organize the collection by country. In order to gather any information about a stamp, you would first need to know what country it is from. In order to do this, the most cost effective method would be utilizing a stamp stockbook. These are bound stockbooks (just like a book at the library) that are available in different sizes and configurations.
You could also purchase stamp stock pages to place inside of a ringbinder as well which many stamp collectors do. There are also hingeless stamp albums available for your mint stamps which are the optimum way to collect. But in reality, this will cost you more and since you are just trying to get organized, stamp tongs (which are like tweezers) specifically designed for stamps. this will get expensive. When you are placing a stamp in any type of system, you should use stamp tongs.
Lastly, once you are organized you could then either bring the collection to a local stamp dealer, or alternatively try to first value the stamps themselves using Scott Catalogs which are the industry standard. These books, though quite expensive, do provide current market values of stamps. These are all organized by country which is why I suggested this method earlier.
I wish you all the best with your new collection. Hope you and your family enjoy all the work and effort your grandfather put in building your collection!
The first thing I would suggest you do is organize the collection by country. In order to gather any information about a stamp, you would first need to know what country it is from. In order to do this, the most cost effective method would be utilizing a stamp stockbook. These are bound stockbooks (just like a book at the library) that are available in different sizes and configurations. You could also purchase stamp stock pages to place inside of a ringbinder as well which many stamp collectors do. There are also hingeless stamp albums available for your mint stamps which are the optimum way to collect. But in reality, this will cost you more and since you are just trying to get organized, stamp tongs (which are like tweezers) specifically designed for stamps. this will get expensive. When you are placing a stamp in any type of system, you should use stamp tongs.
Lastly, once you are organized you could then either bring the collection to a local stamp dealer, or alternatively try to first value the stamps themselves using Scott Catalogs which are the industry standard. These books, though quite expensive, do provide current market values of stamps. These are all organized by country which is why I suggested this method earlier. I wish you all the best with your new collection. Hope you and your family enjoy all the work and effort your grandfather put in building your collection!
Sunday, September 15, 2013
Watermarks on stamps - cool!
People ask me all the time about watermarks and watermark detectors - some collectors don't even know that they exist on stamps. Most modern stamps do not have watermarks on them, most likely due to the cost of manufacture. A watermark is typically impressed on the base paper by a "DANDY" roller, which contains the watermark design, during the early stages of paper manufacturing.
Since the same stamp could catalog at 10 cents or $1,000 all depending on the WATERMARK, it becomes imperative that you know i your stamp has the watermark or not. Stamps sometimes come with the watermark imprinted inverted or sideways or inverted on the same stamp design. And collectors value them differently.
Now on to how to find out if your stamp has a watermark. The oldest and least expensive method is using watermark fluid and a watermark tray. You simply place the stamp face down in the tray, and place a small amount of watermark fluid on the back of the stamp. Hopefully the watermark can be seen. The fluid then evaporates, leaving your stamp unharmed, just needing to dry. A time consuming process to see many stamps. Not to mention, the difficult in analyzing the design of the watermark.
This is why SAFE invented the Signoscope. The world's first optic, electric watermark detector. It operates only on glass, pressure and light. No fluid is required and your stamps are never endangered. You simply place the stamp in the tray, tighten the pressure, turn on the light and you see the watermark (or not).
These watermark detectors have the added benefit of being able to detect even slight variations in the thickness of the paper, making it very effective at spotting repairs and forgeries. Even as simple as whether the stamp has been hinged in the past.
To this day after 25 years of using the Signoscopes, I am amazed by their simplicity and convenience. They have paid for themselves over and over!
Since the same stamp could catalog at 10 cents or $1,000 all depending on the WATERMARK, it becomes imperative that you know i your stamp has the watermark or not. Stamps sometimes come with the watermark imprinted inverted or sideways or inverted on the same stamp design. And collectors value them differently.
Now on to how to find out if your stamp has a watermark. The oldest and least expensive method is using watermark fluid and a watermark tray. You simply place the stamp face down in the tray, and place a small amount of watermark fluid on the back of the stamp. Hopefully the watermark can be seen. The fluid then evaporates, leaving your stamp unharmed, just needing to dry. A time consuming process to see many stamps. Not to mention, the difficult in analyzing the design of the watermark.
This is why SAFE invented the Signoscope. The world's first optic, electric watermark detector. It operates only on glass, pressure and light. No fluid is required and your stamps are never endangered. You simply place the stamp in the tray, tighten the pressure, turn on the light and you see the watermark (or not).
These watermark detectors have the added benefit of being able to detect even slight variations in the thickness of the paper, making it very effective at spotting repairs and forgeries. Even as simple as whether the stamp has been hinged in the past.
To this day after 25 years of using the Signoscopes, I am amazed by their simplicity and convenience. They have paid for themselves over and over!
Sunday, August 25, 2013
What are my stamps worth...
I get calls weekly (as do many other dealers), asking how can they get a value of their stamp collection. This question is usually posed by someone who is new to stamp collecting many times by virtue of an inheritance of a grandparent or someone else they were close to. They could have received these in single approval cards, but usually they are found in a stamp stockbook, or printed stamp album.
Stamp collecting is not exactly a new trend sweeping through the world; In fact, philately (or the study of stamps), and stamp collecting have been of interest to many enthusiasts for over centuries. In fact, the American Philatelic Society (APS), which is the biggest congregation of philatelists and stamp enthusiasts in the world has over 40,000 members, was established in the year 1886.
However, the standards by which the marketability and collectable worth of stamps have more or less remained constant. Stamps, generally, are determined as worthy of being collected on the basis of the quality of the stamp and rarity.
Under the qualification of quality is firstly the physical wholeness of the stamp. In effect, it must not be creased, folded, and must still have complete perforated sides. In addition, considerations on its centeredness have the capacity to jack the prices up or drive them down. Centeredness means that the design is placed in equal distances from the perforated edges on all sides. An alternate definition for centeredness is that the perforated area under the design is much larger in measure than the one at the top. These perforations are measured and cataloged using a perforation gauge.
Color also plays a huge factor in the quality of the stamp. Consistent exposure to the sun and wrong storage methods can cause the color of the design to fade. Moreover, many amateur stamp collectors make the mistake of soaking stamps to remove them from the paper without taking into consideration the ink used to print the stamp and the ink of the cancellation on a used stamp. Stamps issued before the 1940s were printed using fugitive ink, which runs in water. Other times, a used stamp will have a cancellation that runs on water. Soaking the stamp will cause the cancellation’s ink to run into the design, completely compromising the quality of the stamp. When drying the stamps, many people use a stamp drying press or stamp drying book.
Aside from that, the condition of the gum or adhesive film at the back of the stamp is also taken into consideration. A stamp with its gum more or less still intact is much better than one that has been severely damaged by licking and sticking.
A mint or unused stamp has equal chances of being as expensive as a used stamp, and this is best determined by the availability of the stamp. A stamp with lesser propensity of being used on letters would be more expensive if it were acquired as a used stamp; a stamp, on the other hand, that was used in letters in huge volumes would obviously be much more expensive in its mint condition.
The exception to this general rule of thumb is stamps that were already acquired at a steep price. These stamps, acquired expensive even when they are used, will likely to have prices hiked if the great demand to acquire it continues to increase.
However, there may be great difficulty in trying to assess objectively the possible market value or worth of a stamp. Expert philatelists who are connoisseurs in stamp valuations are most likely able to objectively assess the worth of the stamp.
These expert philatelists are not very hard to find. They are usually some of the stamp enthusiasts who’ve had much experience in trading, selling, and collecting stamps. Their services are made most accessible to members of philatelic clubs of which they are part. Some associations that afford their members the services of expert philatelists include the American Philatelic Society (APS) and the American Stamp Dealers Association (ASDA).
On the other hand, other options are of greater accessibility especially to amateur stamp collectors. Across the country, most libraries have more or less an extensive collection of stamp catalogues that help guide stamp enthusiasts in finding out the various stamps issued under a particular theme or subject classification. Moreover, stamp catalogues contain a wealth of information as regards a certain price level for which these stamps are sold in the market.
Usually, stamp prices are a little bit higher than how they would be sold by individual sellers. Nonetheless, these catalogues are useful guides when it comes to at least being aware of what price range the stamp would fall under. The most commonplace stamp catalogues available in the libraries include the US-based Scott, Britain's Stanley Gibbons, and Germany's Michel Catalog.
Stamp collecting is not exactly a new trend sweeping through the world; In fact, philately (or the study of stamps), and stamp collecting have been of interest to many enthusiasts for over centuries. In fact, the American Philatelic Society (APS), which is the biggest congregation of philatelists and stamp enthusiasts in the world has over 40,000 members, was established in the year 1886.
However, the standards by which the marketability and collectable worth of stamps have more or less remained constant. Stamps, generally, are determined as worthy of being collected on the basis of the quality of the stamp and rarity.
Under the qualification of quality is firstly the physical wholeness of the stamp. In effect, it must not be creased, folded, and must still have complete perforated sides. In addition, considerations on its centeredness have the capacity to jack the prices up or drive them down. Centeredness means that the design is placed in equal distances from the perforated edges on all sides. An alternate definition for centeredness is that the perforated area under the design is much larger in measure than the one at the top. These perforations are measured and cataloged using a perforation gauge.
Color also plays a huge factor in the quality of the stamp. Consistent exposure to the sun and wrong storage methods can cause the color of the design to fade. Moreover, many amateur stamp collectors make the mistake of soaking stamps to remove them from the paper without taking into consideration the ink used to print the stamp and the ink of the cancellation on a used stamp. Stamps issued before the 1940s were printed using fugitive ink, which runs in water. Other times, a used stamp will have a cancellation that runs on water. Soaking the stamp will cause the cancellation’s ink to run into the design, completely compromising the quality of the stamp. When drying the stamps, many people use a stamp drying press or stamp drying book.
Aside from that, the condition of the gum or adhesive film at the back of the stamp is also taken into consideration. A stamp with its gum more or less still intact is much better than one that has been severely damaged by licking and sticking.
A mint or unused stamp has equal chances of being as expensive as a used stamp, and this is best determined by the availability of the stamp. A stamp with lesser propensity of being used on letters would be more expensive if it were acquired as a used stamp; a stamp, on the other hand, that was used in letters in huge volumes would obviously be much more expensive in its mint condition.
The exception to this general rule of thumb is stamps that were already acquired at a steep price. These stamps, acquired expensive even when they are used, will likely to have prices hiked if the great demand to acquire it continues to increase.
However, there may be great difficulty in trying to assess objectively the possible market value or worth of a stamp. Expert philatelists who are connoisseurs in stamp valuations are most likely able to objectively assess the worth of the stamp.
These expert philatelists are not very hard to find. They are usually some of the stamp enthusiasts who’ve had much experience in trading, selling, and collecting stamps. Their services are made most accessible to members of philatelic clubs of which they are part. Some associations that afford their members the services of expert philatelists include the American Philatelic Society (APS) and the American Stamp Dealers Association (ASDA).
On the other hand, other options are of greater accessibility especially to amateur stamp collectors. Across the country, most libraries have more or less an extensive collection of stamp catalogues that help guide stamp enthusiasts in finding out the various stamps issued under a particular theme or subject classification. Moreover, stamp catalogues contain a wealth of information as regards a certain price level for which these stamps are sold in the market.
Usually, stamp prices are a little bit higher than how they would be sold by individual sellers. Nonetheless, these catalogues are useful guides when it comes to at least being aware of what price range the stamp would fall under. The most commonplace stamp catalogues available in the libraries include the US-based Scott, Britain's Stanley Gibbons, and Germany's Michel Catalog.
Sunday, August 4, 2013
Stamps or Covers...why not both?
A recent collector said to me this past week, "I have a collection of about 500 stamps and some are individual but many are still on envelopes (covers). I want to display my entire collection - what do you recommend?"
Besides having individual stamps, covers or more specifically, postal stationary, has become a widely growing area. There is so much history that can be on any of these envelopes, a famous person, a town from a bygone area, interesting postal cancellations....
This collector actually has a wide range of choices. It depends on whether they would like the First Day Covers stored in the same album as your stamps, or if they would like to store them separately. In all of our stamp album systems, we have pages that will fit covers (2 and 3 pocket pages), along with pages for individual stamps with 6 to 8 strips on a page. You simply select a ringbinder in one of these systems, and the number of pages of each style you need to basically create your own customized album with pages for each.
Alternatively, you could purchase a separate stockbook for stamps . A 32 page model stockbook would most likely fit 500 stamps, but you might want to consider a 64 page stockbook to allow room for growth.
And then lastly you could purchase a separate cover album for all of the envelopes you have. All of our postal stationary albums include some of the same systems for stamps mentioned above, but some are just made for covers specifically. With SAFE, you have endless solutions.
Besides having individual stamps, covers or more specifically, postal stationary, has become a widely growing area. There is so much history that can be on any of these envelopes, a famous person, a town from a bygone area, interesting postal cancellations....
This collector actually has a wide range of choices. It depends on whether they would like the First Day Covers stored in the same album as your stamps, or if they would like to store them separately. In all of our stamp album systems, we have pages that will fit covers (2 and 3 pocket pages), along with pages for individual stamps with 6 to 8 strips on a page. You simply select a ringbinder in one of these systems, and the number of pages of each style you need to basically create your own customized album with pages for each.
Alternatively, you could purchase a separate stockbook for stamps . A 32 page model stockbook would most likely fit 500 stamps, but you might want to consider a 64 page stockbook to allow room for growth.
And then lastly you could purchase a separate cover album for all of the envelopes you have. All of our postal stationary albums include some of the same systems for stamps mentioned above, but some are just made for covers specifically. With SAFE, you have endless solutions.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)

